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Authentic Cantonese cuisines, shopping bargains and wholesale markets turn one of China's most prosperous cities into a magnet for urban tourists. 

Text & Photos: Pete Wong

Admittedly Guangzhou does not look very appealing on the surface. There are only three reasons why anyone would visit Guangzhou - for business, shopping or dining. Outside Tianhe Central, known locally as Tianhe Tiyu Zhong Xin, with its gleaming skyscrapers, the buildings around the city are generally in need of a makeover. In terms of historical wonders, it loses out to Beijing. In terms of glamour, it pales behind Shanghai. But what it lacks in terms of aesthetics, it more than makes up for by being pragmatic. Guangzhou (called Canton in the old days) is the centre for trade and an economic powerhouse. And it has been that way for hundreds of years. During the Qing Dynasty, Guangzhou was the only city in China opened to foreign trade. Today, you would find wholesale markets scattered across different parts of the city offering a whole range of items from clothes, children's toys and traditional medicine to precious stones, antiques and electronic gadgets. Throughout the year, foreigners from around the world flock to the city in search of a bargain, to seal a deal and to ship some of China's products back to their homeland. But the city is not without its charms. You just have to know where to look. For the tourist, the city is a shopper's dream come true. For the gourmet, everyday is an adventure - there's a saying that if there is a creature with its back facing the sun, the Cantonese will eat it.

OUR PICK OF THREE SHOPPING HAVENS
1. No visit to Guangzhou is complete without a pilgrimage to Beijing Lu where you can literally shop till you drop. Rows of shops are lined along this stretch of road which is closed to traffic. You can have your pick of China-made originals made to look just like designer apparels. These are not fakes, by the way, but if that's what you're looking, check out the small lanes off the main road. Shops open from 9am to 10pm but it's only at dusk that the street comes alive. Look out for young ladies who come up to you with sob stories about their wallets being stolen and their being stranded in a big city. They have been scamming tourists in these areas for years. Metro station: Gong Yuan Qian.

2. Shangxiajiu is like a slightly smaller version of Beijing Lu with prices a tad cheaper. There are also less foreigners and some of the buildings here have a long history. Metro station: Changshou Lu.

3. If like most guys, you're more keen on gadgets and stuff, head towards Gangding to check out the many computer malls around the area. Think Low Yat Plaza multiplied ten times and you get the idea on the sheer size and diversity on offer. This is the place to get a laptop, a GPS handheld or any China-made electronic gadget at prices much lower than ours. Metro station: Gangding.

TWO TOURISTY THINGS YOU'LL ENJOY
1. For a quick overview of how a Cantonese ancestral home looks like, visit Chen Clan Academy or Chen Jia Ci, as it's called by the locals.  Stepping inside the ancient architectural wonder is like stepping back in time to the Qing Dynasty. Inside you'll find several rooms decorated with Chinese antique furniture, courtyards and long corridors. The Guangdong Folk Art Museum is also housed within. Don't forget to check out the garden with interesting scultures located behind the ancestral home. Metro station: Chen Clan Academy (Chen Jia Ci)

2. Visit Shamian Island which, for a period of time during the Qing Dynasty, was a trade concession given to the British and French. Today, as you wander around this small district, you'll see buildings with a colonial influence, an old Catholic church that still conducts Sunday masses and a manicured garden surrounded by playful sculptures. There are also some souvenir shops and a few boutique hotels. As you settle down for afternoon snacks at the upmarket coffee joint beside the garden, you might forget you're in China. If you're keen to experience Chinese traditional massage, drop by the Shamian Traditional Chinese Medical Center (85-87 Shamian North St). Metro station: Huangsha.

OUR PICK OF TOP THREE LOCAL RESTAURANTS
1. Ask the locals and they will invariably point you to Chau Kee Restaurant (26 Zhoumen Jie, off Zhongshan 8 Lu) for one of the best authentic Cantonese dimsum in town. Go straight to the second floor (dimsum is not served downstairs) and be prepared to share tables and chat with the locals as it's usually packed especially during weekends. To get there by train, get off at the Chen Clan Academy (Chen Jia Ci) station. You will walk past the Chen Clan Academy (a historical landmark) on your right. Keep walking straight, cross the road at the intersection, walk another 100 metres until you see Zhoumen Jie on your right. It's about a 15-minute walk but well worth the effort.

2. After a hectic day of shopping around Beijing Lu, you might want to head straight for Hong Fu Restaurant (600 Huifu Donglu) nearby which serves the best roast goose (siew ngor) in town. You can also pick live seafood from the display tanks and have them cooked they way you want it. Their prices are very reasonable considering their downtown location.

3. If you have foreign guests and need to impress them, take them to the huge Guangzhou Hong Xing Seafood Restaurant (199 Yianjiang Zhonglu) facing the Pearl River. The ground floor is like a seafood market with hundreds of marine creatures on display in water tanks. Here you can also savour the double-boiled soup which the Cantonese is famous for, or ask the staff to recommend you something new. The price is a bit touristy but still on par with some of our upscale restaurant prices. Metro station: Haizhu Square (Haizhu Guangchang).

PARTY TIME
Guangzhou's clubbing scene is rather tame compared to neighbouring Shenzhen or Zhuhai. The authorities work hard to ensure that there is no monkey business in the city. But if you need to find a watering hole, there are several "bar streets" you could visit. If you're with a date and just want a quiet place for a drink and maybe an evening stroll beside the scenic Pearl River, head towards Fangcun district, also known locally as Bai-e Tan. Here you'll find several bars, restaurants and clubs alongside the river. Metro station: Fangcun.

If you like the beat louder and the crowd younger, check out Yanjiang Lu after dark. Several clubs and discos are located along this stretch of road beside the Pearl River but unlike Fangcun, you have to walk a bit to get from one club to another. You could start from the middle (Yanjiang Zhong Lu) and head west (Yanjiang Xi Lu). Metro station: Haizhu Square.

Expats and foreigners usually hang out around Huanshi Dong Lu in downtown Guangzhou. To get there, you can take a taxi from Martyr's Park metro station (Lieshi Lingyuan), alight at the famous Garden Hotel and explore the area from there. On weekends, the numerous bars and clubs here are packed.

UPSCALE LODGING
China Hotel, A Marriott Hotel (Zhong Guo Da Jiu Dian) is one of several five-star hotels in town and comes highly recommended. It's conveniently located beside the Yuexiu Park metro station. From the airport, it's about an hour's by taxi. If you're staying there, take the opportunity to explore Yuexiu Park, one of the largest in the city. (www.marriott.com/CANMC)

BUDGET STAY
Kinglong Hotel or Jin Long (503-505 Hui Fu East Road) is a small boutique hotel that's easy on the wallet and right smack where the action is. The shopping district of Beijing Lu is just around the corner and along Hui Fu Road itself, there are about a dozen famous local, Japanese and Vietnamese restaurants. Room rates start from around ¥220. (www.gzkinglong.com)

If you prefer to be outside the city centre, try Guangzhou Riverside International Youth Hostel, 15 Changdi Lu, Fangcun, which is popular among foreigners. It's within walking distance from Fangcun metro station and in the evening, you can take a stroll beside the Pearl River just outside the hostel. The famous Bai'e Tan Bar Street is just right outside. Rates start from ¥85. (www.hihostels.com)

GETTING AROUND
Guangzhou is a huge city and the best way to quickly find your bearings is to study the map of underground train or metro stations (di tie pronounced di-tee-yeh). You can buy a stored-value Yang Cheng Tong card for ¥80 at any metro stations. The card can be used on the metro, public buses and at public phone booths, saving you the trouble of finding loose change. If you have time and care to study the routes, hop onto the public buses for a ride around the city. At ¥2 per journey (regardless of distance), it's by far the cheapest way to get around. Taxis are, of course, a no-brainer, but it can get quite difficult to get one during peak hours. The starting fare is ¥7.

MONEY TIPS
Go only to the main banks as the smaller branches do not offer foreign exchange service. In case of emergency, you can also use your Visa card at ATM machines to get a cash advance. There are lots of fake ¥100 notes being circulated so avoid accepting these notes especially at smaller outlets unless you can tell the genuine from the fake ones.

WHEN TO GO
The summer months between June and August can get very hot and humid. It's nice and cool from autumn onwards, starting from September. Twice a year, during April and October, the China Import and Export Fair (also known as Canton Fair) will be held. If you're not attending the event, its best to avoid these months as hotel rates will be increased. The other peak periods to avoid are the so-called "Golden Weeks" -- the first week of May (Labour Day) and October (National Day), when millions of holidaymakers across China are on the move. Winter is relatively mild but may be uncomfortable for Singaporeans so you may want to make sure your room comes with a heater.

GETTING THERE
Singapore Airlines, China Southern Airlines and Tiger Airways have direct flights from Singapore to Guangzhou. From Hong Kong, you can also take the train to Guangzhou in less than two hours. As one of the major cities in China, Guangzhou has regular bus connections with neighbouring cities like Shenzhen, Dongguan and Zhuhai (bordering Macau).

US$1 = ¥6 approx. The Chinese currency is the renminbi or yuan (which means the same thing).

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