Text and photos: Pete Wong
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| Wat Mahathat, Nakhon Sri Thammarat. |
Trang is just one of many small yet interesting towns across South Thailand waiting to be discovered. The recent anti-government protests and airport closure in the capital city of Bangkok may have put a spanner in the works for international tourism. Ironically, it could be good news for Malaysian holidaymakers thinking of a budget self-drive holiday across the border. Without the usual mobs of tourists to contend with, Malaysians can get better deals on hotels, shops and restaurants. And flight bookings and airport closures are non-issues if you drive your own car.
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| Young performers in downtown Hatyai. |
RECOMMENDED ROUTE
If you're game for a sense of adventure, try a circular route starting from Hat Yai, heading northwest to Trang, continuing onwards to the coastal towns of Krabi and Phang Nga, before crossing the bridge to the island of Phuket. For the return leg from Phuket, you can head northeast to the coastal town of Surat Thani, take a ferry across to Koh Samui if time permits, then drive south along the coast to Nakhon Si Thammarat and Songkhla before ending back in Hat Yai. Your total distance covered for this route would be around 1,060 km, with the longest distance from Phuket to Surat Thani being 287 km.
HAT YAI
Driving across the border from Bukit Kayu Hitam is hassle-free. You will arrive in the border town of Sadao and 60 km further, you will arrive in Hat Yai, popularly known as the gateway to South Thailand. The town has been a shopping haven for Malaysian tourists for decades and many stall owners speak Mandarin, Hokkien or even Malay. You can do your shopping in places like Lido, Sanehanuson, Hat Yai Plaza and Si Kimyong Market. If you need a place to find your bearing, head towards Lee Garden Plaza where the five-star Novotel Centara Hat Yai (www.centarahotelsresorts.com) is located. The Santisuk Market is around the area. Besides shopping, cheap food and massage, there is a new tourist attraction called Nam Klonghae Floating Market, which is the brainchild of a local mayor who thought it would be a nice idea to have the famous floating markets in Bangkok replicated here. Don't forget to check out Wat Hat Yai Nai on Phetkasem Road. They have one of Asia's largest reclining Buddha measuring 35 metres long, 15 metres high and 10 metres wide. If you like waterfalls, visit Namtok Ton Nga Chang, located inside Ton Nga Chang Wildlife Sanctuary, about 26 km outside the city. The waterfall has seven levels and the third level is the most beautiful.
For the best seafood in town, check out Jae Lek Restaurant (190/3-4 Nipatuthit 2 Road, T: 074-2444 66). For a good and reasonably-priced hotel, try the newly-refurbished New Season Hotel (T:+6674 352 888). From the hotel, it's just a 10-minute walk to Lee Garden Plaza where you can find street stalls selling food and knick knacks. The hotel's massage is also one of the best in town.
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| Dimsum in the "Chinese" town of Trang. |
From Hat Yai, it's 148 km to the sleepy town of Trang. Trang was the first town in Thailand where rubber from Malaysia was planted. This town is as Chinese as it gets as most residents are of Chinese ethnic descent. You will come across familiar coffee shops selling dimsum, tea and coffee. Locals rise bright and early for dimsum breakfast and Ruen Thai Dhim Sum Restaurant is a local favourite. By evening, the streets are quiet. So where, you ask, do the younger folks go for late night entertainment? The answer is Say Yes Thana Pub which is more like a disco with live band and lovely table-top dancers. It seems like all the young people in town gather here to party till the wee hours. The pub is located in Thumrin Thana Hotel (www.thumrin.co.th), probably the largest in town.
Outside Trang, you can explore Chao Mai or the Le Khao Kop Cave (Tham Le Khao Kop) on canoe. Le Khao Kop, however, is not recommended for the fainthearted. The gap between the canoe and some parts of the cave can be just a few centimetres apart depending on water level and you may be leaving some parts of your face on the jagged rocks. There are several Chinese temples around town but they may not be worth your time as they look too similar to what we see back home. The former prime minister, Chuan Leekphai, hails from this town and you can pay a visit to his family home. From Trang it's a short 43 km drive to the Pak Meng Pier and a hop to the nearby islands like Libong, Kradan, Muk, Sukon, Ngai and Laoling islands. Most of these islands have accommodation and they are ideal for a quiet getaway.
KRABI
From Trang, it's 131 km to the seaside town of Krabi, famous for its dramatic limestone cliffs and over a hundred offshore islands. The town itself is relatively quiet as most tourists head off to the islands. About 9 km north of town, you can visit the temple grounds of Wat Tham Suea or Tiger Cave. The cave is flanked by forests and there are tiger prints captured in stone inside the caves, hence the name. From Krabi, you can hop onto a boat to visit Phra Nang beach, considered by many to be the most beautiful on the Andaman coast. There are also many famous offshore islands like Lanta and Phi Phi, the latter made famous after the movie "The Beach" was filmed there. The islands around Krabi are a diver's haven.
In Krabi town, you can check out the resorts facing Ao Nang beach like Krabi La Playa Resort (www.krabilaplaya.com) or Ao Nang Beach Home (www.aonangbeachhome.com). Pavilion Queen's Bay Krabi (www.pavilionhotels.com) has lovely rooms and is located up on a hill and quieter. For something upmarket, you can try Sheraton Krabi Beach Resort (www.sheraton.com/krabi).
PHANG NGA
About midway between Krabi and Phuket, you may want to break journey at Phang Nga and hop onto a longtail boat to visit the famous limestone caves, floating villages, waterfalls and temples on the nearby islands. The famous James Bond island (Kao Tapoo) is located here. A one-day cruise from 9am to 5pm should cost around B1,200 (B900 for children). The journey from Krabi to Phang Nga is 86 km.
PHUKET
From Phang Nga, it's only 87km to the famous Phuket island. Tourists are mostly concentrated along Patong beach on the west side of the island where the resorts and shops are located. Patong also has a vibrant nightlife although the scene is milder now after the tsunami. Further south are the quieter Karon and Kata beaches. If you're looking for a small and cosy resort near Karon beach, check out Baan Karon Resort (www.phuketbaankaron.com). Looking to get away from the hustle, you can try Aman Resort (www.amanresorts.com) or Banyan Tree Phuket (www.banyantree.com) which has been around for decades. Phuket offers both adult and family entertainment and you are usually spoilt for choices.
SURAT THANI
From Phuket, it's a 287 km drive northeast to Surat Thani, known as the gateway to the island of Ko Samui, Thailand's third largest island. The nearby island of Ko Pha-Ngan is famous for its full-moon beach parties. Further up north is the island of Ko Tao, famous for its coral reefs and the Ang Thong Marine National Park.
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| Wat Mahathat, Nakhon Sri Thammarat. |
From Surat Thani, it's a 134 km drive to the quiet town of Nakhon, known for its royal-class temple, the Wat Phra Mahathat. Inside is a Sri Lankan-style pagoda with it's tip covered by gold. If you're into nature, pay a visit to Khao Luang National Park. You can opt for a three-day jungle trek to visit the beautiful waterfalls and caves, stay at the local villages or attempt to trek up Fa Mi summit to catch the sunrise.
Around town, you can shop for silverware and accessories at a famous row of shops lined up along Silver Street. You can also visit a local shadow puppet master, Suchat Sapsin who will put up a hilarious puppet show for you. The Twin Lotus Hotel (www.twinlotushotel.net) in town is highly recommended.
SONGKHLA
From Nakhon, you can take the coastal road heading south to Songkhla 161 km away. Compared to nearby Hat Yai, Songkhla is more of a laid-back coastal town with several quiet beaches. The famous beach of Hat Samila is where you will find a bronze mermaid representing the earth goddess Mae Thorani sitting alone on a 3 km stretch of soft white sand backed by casuarinas. In Songkhla, you can also visit several venerable temples dating back to the 8th century. If you visit around October, you may get to witness the Lak Phra and Tak Bat Thewo (giving alms) ceremonies where several hundred monks will walk down from the temple to collect alms. Monks from other temples outside Songkhla will also travel here by boats and proceed along the waterfront. The monks will congregate around the lotus pond to participate in a boat decorating contest. After Songkhla, its a short 28 km drive to Hatyai.
WHEN TO GO
South Thailand's weather is similar to Malaysia's - practically hot all year round with the monsoon months between May to December bringing more rain. It can also get quite hot in the afternoon so stock up with plenty of drinking water in the car. The Songkran Festival is held in the month of April if you want to join in the festivities but be prepared to get wet.
BEFORE YOU GO
Don't let the news scare you. It is safe to self-drive and have an enjoyable holiday in south Thailand. If you prefer safety in numbers, organise a convoy of cars to go together. There are several entry points from Malaysia into Thailand and the Chang Lon Border after Bukit Kayu Hitam is a recommended point of entry.
Visas are not required for Malaysians but make sure your passport has a validity period of at least six months. Besides your driving license, you may also be required to produce proof of ownership for your vehicle. You drive on the left side of the road just like in Malaysia. Money changers are available on both sides of the border. The Tourism Authority of Thailand (www.thaitourism.com.my) office at Level 22, Menara Citibank, Jalan Ampang, Kuala Lumpur, provide maps and telephone numbers of local tourism authorities, highway police and local hospitals. A Thai phrasebook would also come in handy in case you need to ask for road directions. Road signs may not be prominent in some smaller towns and a GPS device with a recent map of Thailand would come in handy.
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| Nam Klonghae Floating Market, Hatyai. |
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| Nam Klonghae Floating Market, Hatyai. |
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| Temple in Hatyai. |
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| Wat Mahathat, Nakhon Sri Thammarat. |
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| Puppet master at Nakhon Sri Thammarat. |
