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Ancient temple ruins, friendly locals and a back-to-basic lifestyle make Cambodia's famous city a chill-out destination for the urban executive.

Text & Photos: Pete Wong

If you have been putting off that Siem Reap trip thinking that temple ruins is all there is, you could be missing out on a great adventure. There's more to Siem Reap than Angkor Wat, as I soon discovered after a first-time visit there recently.

When the French explorers first stumbled upon Angkor Wat in the 19th century, Siem Reap was just a remote village. As Angkor's fame spread across the world attracting an increasing number of intrepid travellers, the village grew in popularity. It went back into slumber during the brutal Khmer Rouge regime and it is only in the past decade or so, that the city is starting to get busy again as hordes of tourists arrive by the busloads to jam up the narrow dusty roads. Hotels, shops and restaurants are growing in numbers and just recently, shopping malls are starting to appear, threatening to change local  lifestyles.

During peak season, temples around Angkor are so crowded with tourists, it's almost impossible to take a snapshot without someone getting in the way. But if you plan your visit very early in the morning, you might still find your quiet corner and be rewarded with a spectacular sunrise. More tourists are catching on to this idea, however, and you can see tour buses and little tuk tuks heading out to the temples way before sunrise.

Despite the tourist crowd, Siem Reap and its nearby temples, are still worth visiting. The locals are friendly and have not lost their souls to tourism yet. Kids do not usually ask for money when you take their pictures. The locals are mostly ethnic Khmers but you may come across ethnic Chinese running small businesses at the market or Cham Muslims who speak Malay.

First-time visitors to Siem Reap usually vow to come back for more. American tourist, Greg, arriving from the capital city, Phnom Penh says, "When I got in to Siem Reap, I realised that I should have planned for more days here instead of wasting my time in the capital. Although I hate crowds, there are more interesting places to visit here.

ANGKOR WAT
The reason you're in Siem Riep, like millions of other tourists, is Angkor Wat, the mother of all temples. The first thing you need to do is to head towards the main entrance, queue up and buy a pass which allows you access to the temple grounds. It's advisable to get at least a three-day pass for US$40. Place it in a tag and wear it around your neck as you will be asked to show your pass at every temple you visit. Only locals enjoy free access. When you visit Angkor Wat for the first time, you'll learn that there are several other temples behind it, like Bayon, Angkor Thom and Preah Khan and you'll be glad you have a three-day pass. The main temple, Angkor Wat, closes at 6pm sharp and guards will shoo away day-time visitors to pave the way for evening guests who pay a premium US$15 to see the temple bathe in colourful floodlights.

A lot of the temple statues are headless, thanks to looters who saw off the heads to sell to antique collectors overseas. After several visits to the temple ruins, you might get an overdose from seeing the same things. A good guidebook or local tour guide may be able to put you back on track and enhance your experience. Some of the more interesting stone carvings of apsaras (heavenly nymphs) are hidden between stone slabs and you need to know where to look.

AROUND SIEM REAP
If you're looking for a unique Cambodian experience away from the tourist traps, visit Wath Rokar Monastery about an hour outside town. If you get there before 7am, you can witness the monks lining up at the temple grounds to receive alms from the villagers. After the ceremony, the monks will proceed to have prayers and breakfast. Lay people will then have their turn to enjoy breakfast prepared by women from the nearby villages who volunteer their time in the kitchen to prepare food for everyone. But don't just stay within the temple grounds. Walk to the village behind the monastery to chat up the locals and see how they live. They are poor but friendly and many will invite you into their homes. It would be good if you have with you some small gifts for the children like stationeries or t-shirts to give away. Giving money is not necessarily a good idea but you can donate to the temple.

A visit to Tonle Sap lake promises to be an unforgettable experience. Heading out from the river towards the lake feels more like heading out into a vast ocean. Tonle Sap is Southeast Asia's largest freshwater lake and it provides a livelihood for thousands of fishermen and their families living on the banks of rivers and in "floating" villages. One such village is the Kompong Phlouk Fishing Village which can be reached after a 30-minute boat ride. Upon reaching the village, you will see many wooden houses built on stilts in bright pastel colours creating a scene that is almost surreal. At the heart of the village, there is a temple, a school and a small drinks stall. You can also transfer to the smaller rowboats for a leisurely tour of the floating village but do so at your own risk and only if you're a good swimmer.

Banteay Srei is a well-preserved Hindu temple dedicated to Shiva. The temple is located about 32km or an hour's ride from town. The stone carvings on the walls of the temple include epic scenes from Ramayana. While you're out at Banteay Srei, you may want to venture another 18km farther to visit Kbal Spean, famous for its stone carvings on a riverbed. You will have to trek uphill for about 2km to see the carvings beneath a shallow stream. There is also a small waterfall at the hilltop. The place is considered a sacred site but personally, I wasn't too impressed after seeing the splendours of Angkor Wat but you might enjoy it. What they don't tell you is that there are land mines around the area so do keep to the trodden path.

WHERE TO STAY
There are plenty of hotels in Siem Reap to suit all budgets. For a reasonably-priced hotel with rates starting from US$14, try Golden Angkor Hotel (opposite Sokha Angkor Hotel). Their rooms come with air-con, TV and attached bathrooms with hot shower.

Going upmarket, you can check out the ultra-chic Amansara (www.amanresorts.com) which was formerly Norodom Sihanouk's guest villa. The hotel has two pools, a popular in-house spa, indoor and outdoor dining, and room interiors that are as luxurious as it can get. Former guests include celebrities like Brad Pitt and Mick Jagger. They only have 24 rooms so you will have to make early bookings.

EATING & SHOPPING
There are many shops, restaurants and cafes catering to tourists. For sheer variety, just head towards Psar Chaa (also known as Old Market). Cambodian cuisine is not as well-known as Thai or Vietnamese and their street food is not recommended for the fainthearted, unless you have a penchant for deep-fried spiders and other creepy crawlies. To stay on the safe side, you may want to try a good Malaysian eatery called d Wau Restaurant (tel: +855-63 96 6955).

Cambodians have been through a lot of hardship so be understanding when you get your food in smaller portions than you are used to. For shopping, you can get all the Khmer souvenirs you need at Psar Chaa, including cheap t-shirts, Buddha carvings and silk clothing.

NIGHTLIFE
The nightlife in Siem Reap is not terribly exciting unless you enjoy drinking with other tourists. There is a Bar Street around the Psar Chaa area which has the largest concentration of watering holes. Most folks are tired out after a day exploring the temples and there's nothing like a good massage to ease the pain. They are plenty of mom-and-pop shops along the road offering foot reflexology and body massages from US$7.

You can also check out the Angkor Night Market (near Sivatha Street) which looks similar to our pasar malams. They open till midnight.

WHEN TO GO
Siem Reap is good anytime of the year but between February and June, it can get unbearably hot. From July to October, it's the wet season and floods are common. November to January are the best months as the weather is cool and dry but not to the extent that you will need a jacket. But do remember that the year-end period is also the busiest.

Around November 10, locals take a three-day break for the Bon Om Tuk or Water Festival. During this period, locals will visit temples to give offerings, traditional dances are held in public areas and candles are set off along the river in the evenings creating a lovely scene.

GETTING THERE & AROUND
Both Singapore Airlines and Jetstar Airways fly direct to Siem Reap. An alternative is to fly via Kuala Lumpur on Air Asia. From Siem Reap airport, you can take a taxi to town for US$5. The distance is about 7 km. If you're arriving in Siem Reap for the first time without hotel reservations, just head towards the Psar Chaa or Old Market area, considered the town centre with plenty of hotels around.

Siem Reap is not a very big town. You can explore the downtown area on a rental bicycle (rates from US$1 per day). Or you can hop into a tuk tuk which can seat up to four persons. A return trip between town and Angkor Wat starts from US$6 if you bargain hard. The tuk tuk drivers will be glad to take you around the whole day for rates of between US$10 and US$20. Some part of the roads are incredibly dusty, especially when heading towards Angkor Wat so a shawl or a face mask would come in handy. If you need a good English-speaking local guide, you can contact Ta (+855 12 848 553) who is both friendly and knowledgeable.

TRAVEL TIPS
The local currency is the Cambodian riel but you would be better off carrying loads of US one-dollar notes. Prices for most items are rounded up to the nearest US dollar so a bottle of water would cost US$1, for example. Upon departure, you need to pay US$25 airport tax.

Observe local customs. It's considered disrespectful for men to wander around the temple grounds bare-chested and for women to be scantily dressed. When you step into places of worship, remove your shoes and take off your cap. Ladies should remember not to physically touch the monks.