Suite Life Tour of Vietnam

"There's something unique about the place, the people and the cultures. It's simply charming. I can never get enough of it," says John, a retired 60-something from Arizona, when asked what brings him to Vietnam. John isn't alone in his sentiments about the country. More than a million tourists visit annually and year after year, tourist arrivals set new records. With a varied landscape stretching across a strip of land 1,650 km from north to south and a population of 84 million people, Vietnam has much to offer. 

After 20 years of doi moi (economic reforms) and entry into the World Trade Organization (WTO) in January 2007, Vietnam is eager to welcome tourists to visit and see for themselves that the country is no longer the economic backwater it was thought to be. I spoke to Yukiko Une, a pretty 19-year-old student from Japan. With only a little English and a Japanese guidebook, she travelled alone from Hanoi in the north, stopping at major cities along the way, down south to Ho Chi Minh City. When asked if she felt safe, she replies: "Look around you, there are so many other single travellers like me." 

If you have always thought of Vietnam as a backpacker destination, think again. For the moment, the good news is that you can travel luxury-class across Vietnam without really feeling the pinch. As a testament to that fact, I was invited on a month-long visit to check out the country's best attractions. 

HANOI

First stop, Hanoi, the country's capital located in northern Vietnam. I have been to Hanoi many times but I can imagine the bewilderment that awaits the unwary first-time visitor. When four million motorbikes hit the road during rush hour, there is only one traffic rule - to stay alive. If you are ever caught in the middle of it, just keep on walking. "The worst thing you could do is stop in the middle of traffic as that would create confusion for oncoming motorists," my local friend, Long, advises. There is never a dull day in Hanoi. You can check out one of the many chic restaurants surrounding the iconic St Joseph's Cathedral, shop around the popular Ly Quoc Su vicinity, enjoy an orchestral performance at the Hanoi Opera House or just explore the Old Quarter with its narrow alleys and quaint shophouses. There are about a dozen luxury hotels in Hanoi including the Sofitel Metropole Hanoi, Hilton Hanoi Opera and Hanoi Horison, to name just a few. 

In Hanoi, I was invited to dine at the Press Club, one of the most popular upmarket restaurants in town. Located near Hoan Kiem Lake, the award-winning restaurant's interior is classy and the ambience conducive for quiet conversations with friends. The restaurant is also known for having one of the most extensive wine lists in town.

HALONG BAY

A visit to Hanoi would not be complete without an excursion to Halong Bay. Located 160 km east of Hanoi, the legendary Bay features 1,969 islands in various shapes and sizes forming a spectacular seascape of limestone pillars. A World Heritage site, the Bay attracts hundreds of visitors daily with many of them spending the night on board one of the many local boats. 

I was scheduled to stay on board the Emeraude, a 36-cabin replica of a colonial-era paddle steamer that takes visitors on a cruise around the Bay. I had the benefit of staying in one of the suites located at the bow of the ship, with a private viewing deck. Cruising on the Emeraude is like going back in time to the days of the French colonial era. At sunset, we anchored in the middle of the Bay, surrounded by gigantic limestone pillars. After a dip in the cool emerald waters and a sumptuous dinner, we fell asleep lulled by soft French music playing in the background. For those who love nostalgia, the Emeraude is certainly a must.

HUE

Travelling 658 km south of Hanoi, I arrived at Hue in central Vietnam. Compared to bustling Hanoi, Hue is sleepy and quiet. But what it lacks in vibrancy, it more than makes up for in its abundance of historical monuments and cultural wealth. Hue, an imperial city for 400 years, was controlled by the Chinese during the Ming dynasty but by 1427, the invaders were repelled and replaced by local kings. If you visit the many temples, royal palaces and tombs, you will see a resemblance to Chinese architecture. Today Hue is known not just for its historical remains but also for its traditional music and distinctive local food, found nowhere else in Vietnam. 

In Hue, I stayed at La Residence Hotel & Spa, located in the city beside the famed Perfume River. Built in 1930 as part of the colonial governor's residence during the French occupation and restored to its former glory in 2005, the 122-room boutique hotel is an art deco masterpiece. It offers a huge saltwater pool, a French restaurant, a fitness centre and spa, among others. Rooms are luxuriously-appointed with art deco design right down to the last detail including the taps in the bathroom. I stayed in the deluxe room but I can tell you, even the standard rooms look luxurious. During my stay, I was treated to a one-hour massage at Le Spa. My therapist, Tam, may look petite but she gave me the strongest and most delightful backrub that I can ever remember. 

HOI AN

Hoi An is about 140 km from Hue or 30 km from Danang. Between the 16th and 17th centuries, the town was a major trading centre and port-of-call for the Chinese, Dutch, Portuguese and other merchants from around the world. Today, several rows of wooden shophouses that were built during those glorious days were preserved in a part of town known as Hoi An Ancient Town. This part of town is also recognised as a World Cultural Heritage site. Some of the 200-year-old shophouses have been turned into trendy sidewalk cafes, chic restaurants, bars and even museums, making it a popular tourist hangout. 

I checked-in at the Life Heritage Resort Hoi An, which is located at the fringe of the ancient town. The 94-room boutique resort is just beside the famed Thu Bon river and it seems more like a private residence than a resort. You immediately want to kick off yours shoes and change into your shorts and tees. The room is cosy with luxurious bathroom fittings like a granite sunken bath and rain shower. Outside the room is a private porch with a lounge area complete with soft cushions. One of my favourite daily activities was to hop onto one of the bicycles provided by the resort and cycle to the nearby market which is a hive of activity for locals and tourists alike. In fact, with a bicycle, you can explore most parts of town. 

QUY NHON

Leaving central Vietnam, I travelled further down south to the small town of Quy Nhon. The town makes a good springboard to well-known tourist attractions like 18th century pagodas and mysterious dark-brown Cham Towers built during the 12th century. Famous ones include the Duong Long and Banh It Towers. 

I travelled 16 km outside of town to check-in at Life Wellness Resort Quy Nhon. The resort entrance is located on a gentle hill with steps leading down to a private beach behind. The seascape is stunning with local fishing boats dotting the sea and unusual rock formations on the sandy beach. The 63-room resort incorporates Cham architecture in its design and features an infinity pool and an award-winning spa. I can imagine why folks come all the way out here to unwind. I met a Spanish couple who liked it so much they stayed for one whole week at the resort, making daily visits to nearby attractions. 

DALAT

Dalat is a former French hill-station about 300 km from Ho Chi Minh City and can be reached by air or road. The town is famous for its flower gardens and French-inspired architecture. The weather here is cool all year round and it's no wonder that the homesick French decided to turn Dalat into le petit Paris. 

I was fortunate enough to be invited to stay at the Sofitel Dalat Palace, mentioned by National Geographic magazine as one of the five most distinguished properties in the country. More palatial than colonial, the hotel seems like a French palace with huge chandeliers, European classical furnitures and Renaissance oil paintings. The creaking timber flooring and French classical music in the background all adds to the mood. Built in 1922, the hotel even have a big fireplace at the lobby which is lit up during year-end when it can get really cold. My room has a picturesque view of Xuan Huong Lake in the centre of town. You can check out the chic restaurants and cafes nearby, sign up for a spa session at L'apothiquaire Spa or try out the 18-hole golf course right in front of the hotel.

PHAN THIET

Leaving Dalat, I travelled further down south to the quiet town of Phan Thiet. In the evenings, locals like to hang out along the stretch of road facing Doi Duong beach to catch the sea breeze. Many cityfolks from Ho Chi Minh City take a three-hour drive to this town to enjoy the sun and sea and probably a round of golf at the Novotel Ocean Dunes & Golf Resort Phan Thiet. Situated on the edge of a private 2 km stretch of beach, the family-friendly resort features an 18-hole championship golf course and a mini-casino, among others. I stayed at one of the villas, located away from the main hotel block. The villas are self-contained with a kitchen, dining and lounge areas. Nearby attractions include the seaside town of Mui Ne, 24 km north of town, famed for its sand dunes resembling a mini-Sahara desert.

HO CHI MINH CITY

Officially it's Ho Chi Minh City (HCMC) but the locals still like to call their city by its former name, Saigon. Compared to the capital Hanoi, HCMC has a cosmopolitan feel with more highrise buildings, casinos and chic boutiques selling branded luxury items. Upmarket hotels are mostly centred around Lam Son Square in District 1. 

At HCMC, I was invited to stay at Caravelle Hotel, built in the late '50s and made famous by the correspondents who used to watch the war from the rooftop terrace now called Saigon Bar. After identifying myself at the lobby counter, I was whisked to the Signature Lounge on the 9th floor for a quick check-in. Within minutes, I was in my mini-suite which was well-appointed with a flat-panel TV, mini hi-fi and separate lounge area. There is even a rubber duckie beside the bath tub. The rooms at the Caravelle are easily one of the best I have seen in HCMC. 

CONTACTS

Sofitel Metropole Hanoi, 15 Ngo Quyen Street, Hanoi. T: (844) 826 6919. www.sofitel.com

Hilton Hanoi Opera, 1 Le Thanh Tong Street, Hanoi. T: (844) 933 0500. www.hilton.com

Hanoi Horison, 40 Cat Linh Street, Hanoi. T: (844) 733 0808. www.swiss-belhotel.com

Emeraude Classic Cruises, 59A Ly Thai To Street, Hanoi. T: (844) 934 0888. www.emeraude-cruises.com

Press Club, 59A Ly Thai To Street, Hanoi. T: (844) 934 0888. www.hanoi-pressclub.com

Sofitel Dalat Palace, 12 Tran Phu Street, Dalat. T: (84-63) 825 444. www.sofitel.com

Caravelle Hotel, 19 Lam Son Square, District 1, Ho Chi Minh City. T: (84-8)8234 999. www.caravellehotel.com

Novotel Ocean Dunes & Golf Resort, 1 Ton Duc Thang Street, Phan Thiet. T: (84-62) 822 393. www.phanthietresorts.com

Life Wellness Resort Quy Nhon, Ghenh Rang, Bai Dai Beach, Quy Nhon. T: (84-56) 840 132. www.life-resorts.com

Life Heritage Resort Hoi An, 1 Pham Hong Thai Street, Hoi An. T: (84)(0) 510 914 555. www.life-resorts.com

La Residence Hotel & Spa, 5 Le Loi Street, Hue. T: (0084-0) 54 837 475. www.la-residence-hue.com


Article last published in The Expat, February 2008.
Copyright Reserved © Pete Wong